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  Traitement de conservat...  
Figure 5. Détails de la tapisserie montrant des fils de soie qui se désintègrent.
Figure 5. Detail of front showing sections of disintegrating silk.
  Traitement de conservat...  
Figure 6. Section de la tapisserie après le nettoyage et le retissage avec des fils de soie.
Figure 6. Section of tapestry after washing and reweaving with new silk.
  Traitement d'une robe d...  
Traitement d'une robe de soie et d'un jupon du XVIe siècle
Conservation Treatment of an 18th-Century Silk Open-Robe
  Restauration du drapeau...  
Figure 11b: La même zone, une fois attachée au tissu support à l'aide de points couchés de fil de soie très fin.
Figure 11b: The same area after being couched onto the support fabric with hairsilk.
  Traitement de conservat...  
Le principal traitement de restauration a consisté à retisser la trame avec de nouveaux fils de laine et de soie. Les teintures employées à l'origine étaient organiques, mais on a choisi d'employer pour la restauration des fils teints selon des procédés modernes avec des mordants métalliques qui assurent la stabilité des couleurs.
The majority of the restoration work consisted of reweaving the badly disintegrated weft with new silk and wool yarns. Although the original dyes were all natural, it was decided to use yarns that were dyed with modern premetallized colourfast dyes to avoid the previous problem of fading and discoloration. The tapestry was also lined with a prewashed loose fitting lining and dustcover, and a Velcro fastening system was attached for safe display. The tapestry will be displayed and stored under ideal environmental conditions to prolong its life.
  Services scientifiques ...  
Figure 3 : Grâce au chromamètre portatif Minolta, on peut mesurer le changement de couleur d'un vêtement de soie en traitement.
Image 3: Using a portable Minolta Chromameter to measure the colour change of a silk garment undergoing conservation treatment.
  Un tissu de recouvremen...  
Noter les fendillements qui ont résulté de l'affaiblissement de la soie et de l'incompatibilité des matériaux (c.-à-d. le gros fil métallique de la décoration appliqué à la soie fine); les réparations antérieures sont également visibles.
Figure 5. Detail of the same battle honour. Note the splitting that has resulted from the weakening of the silk and the incompatibility of the materials (i.e., heavy metallic thread of the battle honour applied to fine silk ground fabric); previous repairs are also visible.
  Traitement d'une robe d...  
Un échantillon de la soie bleue a été analysé suivant la méthode de Hofenk-De Graff modifiée par Schweppe, ce qui a permis d'identifier le colorant. Le test a permis de conclure qu'une matière colorante du genre indigo avait été utilisée.
A sample of the blue silk fabric was analyzed according to the Hofenk de Graaff method as modified by Schweppe to determine the dye. The test indicated that an indigo-type dye was present.
  Comment prendre soin de...  
En raison de la dimension des courtepointes, il n'est pas pratique de les ranger à plat. Si une courtepointe doit être pliée pour être rangée, matelasser les plis avec des rouleaux de papier de soie non acide, de mousseline ou d'ouate de polyester.
Because of their size, it is not practical to store quilts flat. If you must fold a quilt for storage, pad the folds well with rolled acid-free tissue paper, muslin or polyester batting. Re-fold regularly to avoid creases and dirt lines.
  Un tissu de recouvremen...  
Noter les fendillements qui ont résulté de l'affaiblissement de la soie et de l'incompatibilité des matériaux (c.-à-d. le gros fil métallique de la décoration appliqué à la soie fine); les réparations antérieures sont également visibles.
Figure 5. Detail of the same battle honour. Note the splitting that has resulted from the weakening of the silk and the incompatibility of the materials (i.e., heavy metallic thread of the battle honour applied to fine silk ground fabric); previous repairs are also visible.
  Traitement d'une robe d...  
Pour des raisons esthétiques et pratiques, la jupe et le jupon ont été doublés d'une soie légère teinte d'une couleur semblable à l'original. Cette doublure protégera la robe lorsqu'on habillera le mannequin.
For aesthetic and practical reasons, the interior of the skirt and petticoat were both lined with a lightweight silk fabric dyed to match. This lining will protect the gown when it is placed on and off the mannequin.
  Comment prendre soin de...  
Pour les œuvres que l'on compte entreposer longtemps, ranger ces chemises dans des cartons non acides munis de couvercles. S'il n'est pas possible de ranger les œuvres dans des contenants de protection non acides, on peut également les protéger avec des intercalaires en papier de soie non acide.
). For long-term storage, these folders can be placed in acid-free boxes that have lids. If acid-free protective enclosures are not possible, the artwork may be interleaved with acid-free tissue. Cut acid-free tissue to fit the inside dimension of the storage container and place a sheet between each piece of art.
  Comment prendre soin de...  
Avant de mouiller une courtepointe prisée, il est préférable de consulter un spécialiste. De plus, il peut être impossible de laver les courtepointes dont certaines parties sont en soie ou encore celles qui n'ont jamais été lessivées.
Wet cleaning a quilt is possible, but is not easy because of the size and weight of a wet quilt. It is best to consult a professional to wet clean prized quilts. It may not be possible to wet clean quilts that have silk fabric components or quilts that have never been wet cleaned. Avoid using the washing machine and dryer to clean and dry quilts. Old, oxidized stains may remain after wet cleaning.
  Traitement d'une robe d...  
La robe et le jupon ont été lavés dans une eau contenant du "WA Paste", détergent anionique. Le lavage a amélioré l'aspect de la robe : la soie est plus propre et plus résistante, le tissu lui-même et les éléments en brocart ont retrouvé leur lustre.
The open-robe and petticoat were washed using a solution of WA Paste, an anionic detergent. The wet-cleaning improved the appearance of the gown; the silk was much cleaner and stronger, and the sheen was restored to the fabric and brocaded areas.
  Traitement d'une robe d...  
Une robe de soie bleue et un jupon, appartenant au Costume Museum of Canada à Dugald (Manitoba), ont été traités à l'Institut canadien de conservation; ils appartenaient originalement à la famille Tucker, l'une des premières familles anglaises à coloniser les Bermudes.
An 18th-century silk open-robe and petticoat from the collection of the Costume Museum of Canada , Dugald, Manitoba received conservation treatment at the Canadian Conservation Institute. It originally belonged to the Tucker family, who were among the first English settlers in Bermuda. This gown, circa 1780, is of English construction and would have been worn for formal occasions or lavish evening entertainment.
  Un tissu de recouvremen...  
À l'arrivée du guidon à l'ICC, on a constaté que la texture de la soie était très poudreuse; l'exposition à la lumière au cours des années l'avait détériorée. D'un bleu marine foncé à l'origine, le guidon était devenu vert pâle, et les décorations étaient entourées d'auréoles.
Exposure to light over the years had weakened the ground silk of the guidon, and when it arrived at CCI the texture of the silk was very powdery. Originally a dark navy blue, the guidon had turned pale green and had tidemarks surrounding the battle honours. Previous repairs in a coarse dark thread had not faded to the same light green colour, and were visible. The fragile silk ground fabric required a flat support beneath and an overlay above, both of which would have to accommodate the thickness of the battle honours.
  Un tissu de recouvremen...  
À l'arrivée du guidon à l'ICC, on a constaté que la texture de la soie était très poudreuse; l'exposition à la lumière au cours des années l'avait détériorée. D'un bleu marine foncé à l'origine, le guidon était devenu vert pâle, et les décorations étaient entourées d'auréoles.
Exposure to light over the years had weakened the ground silk of the guidon, and when it arrived at CCI the texture of the silk was very powdery. Originally a dark navy blue, the guidon had turned pale green and had tidemarks surrounding the battle honours. Previous repairs in a coarse dark thread had not faded to the same light green colour, and were visible. The fragile silk ground fabric required a flat support beneath and an overlay above, both of which would have to accommodate the thickness of the battle honours.
  Traitement d'une robe d...  
Pour renforcer les parties détériorées, une soie semblable a été choisie et teinte d'une couleur appropriée. Les bords des déchirures ont été remis à plat, les fils réalignés et ensuite cousus au tissu de soutien.
A compatible silk fabric was chosen to support deteriorated areas and was dyed to match the gown. Torn areas were flattened, and threads were re-aligned and underlaid with this support fabric. The couching of all these areas was a lengthy procedure, because large areas of the skirt required support. The deteriorated underarm portions of the bodice presented a different challenge. Not only was the silk badly disintegrating but it was awkward to repair because of the three-dimensional nature of the bodice.
  Comment prendre soin de...  
Les moquettes et les tapis, qu'ils soient d'origine orientale, en soie, crochetés, des catalognes ou des kilims, servent non seulement à habiller les planchers des maisons, mais aussi à en décorer les murs.
Carpets and rugs are used not only to beautify the floors of our homes, but they also make attractive wall decorations whether they are oriental, silk, hooked or rag rugs or kelims. This combination of the practical and the aesthetic has helped ensure their popularity through the ages. The size and condition of a carpet or rug often helps determine how it is used or displayed.
  Comment prendre soin de...  
On peut aussi utiliser un tube de carton commun, à condition de le couvrir d'un matériau de protection comme une pellicule de plastique Mylar, une pellicule de plastique en polyéthylène, de Tyvek ou une couche épaisse de papier de soie non acide.
Rolling textiles for storage is another option. This works well for larger pieces (shawls, quilts and the like) and for small textiles such as lengths of narrow lace. Acid-free cardboard tubes are available at archival supply shops. A regular cardboard tube can be used if covered by a barrier. Cover the tube with Mylar plastic sheeting, polyethylene plastic sheeting, Tyvek or heavy acid-free tissue. Be sure the tube is longer than the item itself so that there is no contact with the ends when hanging the tube.
  Traitement d'une robe d...  
Pour renforcer les parties détériorées, une soie semblable a été choisie et teinte d'une couleur appropriée. Les bords des déchirures ont été remis à plat, les fils réalignés et ensuite cousus au tissu de soutien.
A compatible silk fabric was chosen to support deteriorated areas and was dyed to match the gown. Torn areas were flattened, and threads were re-aligned and underlaid with this support fabric. The couching of all these areas was a lengthy procedure, because large areas of the skirt required support. The deteriorated underarm portions of the bodice presented a different challenge. Not only was the silk badly disintegrating but it was awkward to repair because of the three-dimensional nature of the bodice.
  Comment prendre soin de...  
Les moquettes et les tapis modernes sont souvent faits de fibres synthétiques, mais ceux d'un certain âge sont fabriqués à partir de fibres naturelles. Ils sont souvent en laine, mais on en trouve aussi en coton et en soie.
There are several techniques for making rugs. They can be knotted, woven or hooked. Modern carpets and rugs are usually constructed from synthetic fibres, but heirlooms are fashioned of natural fibres. These carpets and rugs are often made of wool, as well as cotton and silk. The foundation is usually cotton or linen. Hemp and jute may also be used.
  Restauration du drapeau...  
On a aussi renforcé les zones de fils déliés avec des morceaux de crêpeline, en les collant au tissu support au moyen d'une spatule chauffante. On a de plus renforcé les morceaux attachés de cette manière à l'aide de points couchés de fil de soie très fin.
The bottom band of fabric was also a wool/cotton blend. In this band the fly end was so fragmented that it could not be stabilized with adhesive-coated crepeline because the adhesive would be too difficult to remove from the many areas where it would be exposed. Fortunately the fabric was strong enough to be stitched, so all of the bottom band was attached to the backing fabric in this manner. Fragments and weak areas were couched onto the backing fabric using hairsilk (Figures 10 and 11a, b).
  Étude de la charte roya...  
De plus, les marges supérieure et latérales de la première page sont décorées de motifs imprimés de lions, de licornes, de boucliers et d'autres images. Le grand sceau de Charles II est attaché au cordon de soie qui retient ensemble les cinq feuilles.
The charter consists of five large sheets of parchment made from calfskin or deerskin. Each sheet is about 65 cm by 80 cm. Page one lies flat; the others are rolled up at the bottom. All the pages are inscribed with ornate calligraphy, and the top right corner of page one contains a portrait of Charles II. As well, the top and side margins of page one are adorned with printed illustrations of lions, unicorns, shields and other images. The Great Seal of King Charles is bound to a silk cord, which, in turn, binds the five pages together.
  Restauration du drapeau...  
Le tissu en coton dont étaient composés la bande supérieure et le fourreau n'était pas assez solide pour résister à d'importants travaux de couture. On a renforcé ces zones avec de la crêpeline (un fin tissu de soie presque transparent) dont les deux côtés sont revêtus d'un adhésif thermoplastique, le Clariant T1460 (Figure 8).
The cotton fabric making up the top band and the pole sleeve was too weak to withstand very much stitching. These areas were backed with silk crepeline (a fine, nearly transparent fabric) coated on both sides with a solution of Clariant T1460 (a thermoplastic adhesive) (Figure 8). The excess crepeline was trimmed away, and the cotton was then adhered to the backing fabric by heat setting. This method reinforced the cotton to the extent that a few small stitches could be taken around the edges using hairsilk (an extremely fine silk thread) (Figure 9a, b).
  Comment prendre soin de...  
Dans la mesure du possible, il faut éviter de plier les textiles. S'il n'y a pas moyen de faire autrement, matelasser les plis avec du papier de soie non acide ou de la mousseline. Il faut aussi éviter d'empiler les textiles.
Flat storage is recommended for most textiles because it provides support for the entire textile. An acid-free or polyethylene box with a lid, a sealed shelf or drawer can be used for flat storage. Line the box or shelf with unbleached muslin. Ideally, the textile should not be folded. But if that is unavoidable, pad the creases with acid-free tissue paper or muslin. It is best not to stack several textiles on top of each other. If textiles must be layered, use acid-free paper in between, with the heaviest items at the bottom. Store in a dark place where there is stable heat and humidity and good air circulation.
  Traitement d'une robe d...  
Beaucoup de fils d'argent du brocart s'étaient détachés. La soie avait pâli et s'était altérée de façon évidente, surtout le long du pan avant. L'ouverture sur le devant du corsage avait été modifiée, opération qui a laissé des plis permanents et brisé la soie.
The fabric itself was dirty, but generally in good condition with some abrasion, fracturing and loss. Many of the metallic threads of the brocade fabric had come loose. The silk was faded and discoloured, particularly down the front panel. The front opening of the bodice had been altered resulting in permanent crease lines and fractured silk. Perspiration damaged the underarm areas of the sleeves and bodice extensively. Previous repairs were not only fugitive and had caused staining, but were also haphazardly sewn and pulled on the weakened material.
  Comment prendre soin de...  
Les contenants de plastique en polyéthylène et les boîtes de carton non acide peuvent servir pour ranger les tissus. Le papier de soie non acide ou la mousseline de coton non blanchie, lavée au préalable, conviennent pour doubler les contenants, comme bourrage ou pour protéger les textiles de la poussière.
Polyethylene plastic and acid-free cardboard boxes are fine for storage. So is acid-free tissue paper or pre-washed unbleached cotton muslin when used as a box liner, packing material or dust cover. At all costs, avoid regular paper, cardboard, wood and wood products and adhesives such as urea-formaldehyde, which emit damaging acids. Also, do not use plastic garment bags (such as the ones provided by dry cleaners) because there is no air circulation (which can encourage moisture to build up); they offer no protection from light; and they are typically made of a non-recommended plastic.
  Comment prendre soin de...  
Dans la mesure du possible, il faut éviter de plier les textiles. S'il n'y a pas moyen de faire autrement, matelasser les plis avec du papier de soie non acide ou de la mousseline. Il faut aussi éviter d'empiler les textiles.
Flat storage is recommended for most textiles because it provides support for the entire textile. An acid-free or polyethylene box with a lid, a sealed shelf or drawer can be used for flat storage. Line the box or shelf with unbleached muslin. Ideally, the textile should not be folded. But if that is unavoidable, pad the creases with acid-free tissue paper or muslin. It is best not to stack several textiles on top of each other. If textiles must be layered, use acid-free paper in between, with the heaviest items at the bottom. Store in a dark place where there is stable heat and humidity and good air circulation.
  Traitement d'une robe d...  
Beaucoup de fils d'argent du brocart s'étaient détachés. La soie avait pâli et s'était altérée de façon évidente, surtout le long du pan avant. L'ouverture sur le devant du corsage avait été modifiée, opération qui a laissé des plis permanents et brisé la soie.
The fabric itself was dirty, but generally in good condition with some abrasion, fracturing and loss. Many of the metallic threads of the brocade fabric had come loose. The silk was faded and discoloured, particularly down the front panel. The front opening of the bodice had been altered resulting in permanent crease lines and fractured silk. Perspiration damaged the underarm areas of the sleeves and bodice extensively. Previous repairs were not only fugitive and had caused staining, but were also haphazardly sewn and pulled on the weakened material.
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