hie – -Translation – Keybot Dictionary

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  Männeranzug  
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Aufbügelbare Vlieseline ist völlig ungeeignet (s.o.). Justaucorps und Weste brauchen einen Streifen an der Vorderkante entlang sowie hie und da kleine Stücke. Wenn die Rockschöße wie um 1730-40 üblich abstehen sollen, muß man zusätzlich deren gesamte Fläche hinterfüttern.
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In addition, you need stiffening interlining, e.g. firm linen or horsehair. Silks need at least a layer of medium weight cotton all over. Independent of the stiffness of the top fabric, coat and waistcoat need a strip of interlining along the front edge and smaller pieces here and there. If the skirts are supposed to stick out as was common around 1730-40, they need full interlining.
  Fischbein und sein Ersatz  
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Bei den diversen Sorten von Holz und Horn muß man obendrein erstmal selbst Hand anlegen, um brauchbare Stäbe herzustellen. Dabeben gibt es noch Peddigrohr, das hie und da mit linsenförmigem Querschnitt angeboten wird.
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After having experimented with baleen I had removed from an unsalvageable bodice, I can tell you this: Modern plastic boning is a very good substitute, in some respects even better than the original. Unlike baleen, it doesn't break. Here's a picture: steel coil above, steel band to the left, plastic to the right, a busk below. And this is what baleen looks like.
  Männeranzug Teil 4  
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Vielleicht wendest Du Dich der Weste oder Hose zu, während das Justaucorps aushängt. Die moderne Art, das Saumproblem zu umgehen, ist, Futter und Oberstoff am Saum getrennt zu versäubern und beide nur hie und da lose aneinander zu befestigen.
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Place the coat flat on the ground, inside up, and smooth the lining out. Lightly baste it to the top fabric about 5-6 cm up from the hem. You'll have to do this for each front and back part separately because not all of the coat can lie flat all at once. It's a good idea to mark the fold lines of the side slit pleats while you're at it, and baste the lining to the top fabric along these lines while you're at it. This will make laying the pleats easier and also mark the lines on either side of the fabric.