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The vineyard looks good - by Stefano Brambilla“I would like vitelo tonato with fiori di sukka” (two Germans trying out their Italian phrases). “The truffle festival, it's in November they should have it, not in October: who's ever going to find truffles in October?” (two local producers discussing how to expand the market for the celebrated tuber). “May I give you some advice? The one at 100 euro is really excellent, trust me” (a waiter recommending the best barolo on the menu - not necessarily the most expensive - to a Belgian family). We catch these snippets of ordinary conversation on a July evening in a restaurant of Monforte d’Alba. We eavesdrop on nearby table occupants, as the sun sets on the Langhe vineyards and the stuffiness of the day dissolves in a glass of fragrant red wine. We are here to explore the seven towns of the area that have earned the TCI's Orange Flag, and it is already clear that we cannot stop at whatever is said in words. In the Langhe the food is simply divine, you get to visit cellars together with people from Australia and Japan, to drink every night a better wine than the night before, but gourmet cuisine and DOCG are not enough to make an area excellent (and earn the Flag). Take Monforte, for example: this ancient town, originally inhabited by Cathar heretics, is very well cared for, the buildings have been well renovated, and the Bottari Lattes foundation organizes concerts and exhibitions. Most importantly, the Monforte in Jazz festival is held here every summer within an amazingly beautiful setting. To admire it, climb the town's narrow streets up to the Horszowski Auditorium, on the top of the hill: a terraced lawn between two little red brick churches and a tower standing alone. Undoubtedly, there is a lot more to life than eating. While the real strength of Monforte is the town itself, Barolo and Grinzane Cavour - also set within vineyards - revolve around their castles. In other words, the towns do not really exist, at least in terms of tourists offer: the overwhelming attraction is the looming fortress with its adjacent Regional wine cellar, where one can taste and buy good wines. That is where the similarities end, though: in everything else, Barolo and Grinzane are completely different. The latter towers above the vineyards that Count Camillo Benso, for one, was fond of growing when his father sent him to run the family estate and, while he was there, serve as Mayor. The castle contains many of the Count's object
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